Sierra de Guadarrama

haHA, Birdman! I made it! But let me say, it was not easy. For those considering hiking through the Sierra de Guadarrama, let me proffer this piece of advice: don't. Ok, so for those who REALLY want to anyway (no idea who might be as crazy as me to want to do this), let me offer the following practical advice: (1) don't go in early April! As you'll see from the pictures, there is still a ton of snow all over the mountains and it is below freezing at night. I'd recommend late may or early June; (2) wear sunblock in la Pedriza (there is no shade and even in April you will get toasted);

(3) plan for three days and leave early on day 1 (I unfortunately left Manzanares el Real at noon). Your first day should take you to Puerto de Navacerrada (peak of the route to Segovia - about 25km), then stay in a hotel (I would not recommend free camping as described below). The second day, leave your pack and do a day hike to Los Cotos where you can enter the Peñalara National Park and summit Peñalara (the highest peak) itself (about 15km), then hike back to the hotel for another good night's sleep. On day three, hike the remaining 28km downhill and through the plain to Segovia; and (4) bring plenty of water for leg 1 because it is hot and you may run out!

In all, however, hiking the Sierra de Guadarrama was pretty awesome. It was clear as soon as I started up the serious elevation that the Spanish people were also impressed by my bravado. Not only did I not see another hiker on the supposed pilgrimage trail I was following, but the driver of every third car that passed me turned and looked at me with an expression that conveyed "what the hell are you doing hiking here at this time of year?!?" I'm sure they would have been even more impressed/horrified had they realized my original intent was to hike directly up and over them using the old Roman trails. However, as soon as I got out of Madrid my pulse quickened as I saw what appeared to be snow on the mountains. Upon arriving in Manzanares el Real, my fears were confirmed:


So, the next plan was to go to the tourism office, get a map, and come up with an alternative route that would take me to Segovia but not directly up through the worst of the snow. When I got to the tourism office, I was aghast to discover that it was closed and would not be open again until the following Saturday. Outside of the tourism office were the following "maps/directions" to Segovia from Manzanares el Real. Needless to say, not incredibly helpful.


As it turns out, this route is used as part of the pilgrimage Camino de Santiago although I may have jumped on/off it here and there along the way. In total it was a little over 50km (32mi) from Manzanares el Real to Segovia with an ascent of around 1000m and corresponding decent. The first 10km was relatively flat heading into La Pedriza where there is very little shade and the sun beats the heck out of you. Have lots of water!

The next 15km is entirely uphill on your way from Cerceda up to Puerto de Navacerrada at the peak of the pass. I made it 20km on day 1 and had to stop 5km shy of PdN because I was out of water, exhausted from the constant sun, and it was already 6PM and I was worried I wouldn't find anywhere else. I stopped at what looked like land allocated for day hiking/etc. however had a sign indicating private property. Although I didn't see a "no camping" sign specifically, it is generally frowned upon to camp on private land so I was weary of staying. But then I saw the game changer: a natural spring fountain. So I whipped out the UV purifying CamelBak (paid for itself on this one occasion alone!) and boom! Fresh cool spring water.


I sneakily waited for the people walking their dogs or themselves up the trail to leave the vicinity and scurried up the mountain into the woods to find a place to set up shop. The mountain was incredibly steep and the best I could find was a little V-shaped area between some trees. Not level at all but better than a 25-30 degree slope.


Everything went fine at first and I fell asleep at dusk, only to awake around what must have been midnight to the sound of what I could only assume was someone approaching my tent and then the sound of my flaps and poles being messed with. I froze and for the next 20-30 minutes I lay perfectly still expecting a guerrilla soldier leftover from the Spanish Civil War to collapse my tent, stab me to death, and rob me. Finally, I summoned the courage to open the tent and clutching a flashlight in one hand and open hunting knife in the other I sprang from the tent into the 20 degree night in a t-shirt and gym shorts.

Obviously as no one was there, I made a plea to the spirits of the forest in Spanish (only I said "trees" because I didn't know the word for forest) to spare me for one night and that I would be on my way in the morning. I emphasized "no fuego" which I hoped would appease them. Needless to say, I didn't get much sleep the rest of the night, alternating between shaking from the absurd cold and the fear of being stabbed to death if I nodded off. As soon as daybreak arrived, I packed up my gear and was on my way- thankful to be spared by the forest.

The next 5km were up to the top and PdN. The view was glorious and I could also see the snow-covered summit which I thankfully decided not to attempt. From there the next 5km were sharply downhill in Castille y Leon and were engulfed in a thick, moist, frigid fog. Finally, the fog broke and after lunch of jamon, queso, y pan (2nd day in a row), I made my way down through the foothills of the mountains and into the areas described in For Whom the Bell Tolls. I could almost see Robert Jordan trekking through the woods. I even found a bridge remiscent of the one he's required to destroy at the end of the novel. Anyway, it was just as Hemingway described and worth the hiking pilgrimage to see. (See flickr for all the photos).

My Hemingway pilgrimages being completed in the past few days, it was time to power through the hike. 6km more and I was in San Ildefonso. From there I could see Segovia in the distance- approximately 11km left to go. Feet, shoulders and back hurting, I decided I'd rather push on and sleep in a real bed than tempt the forest spirits again, so I set my jaw and went to work. Hiking through this area was starkly different from the beautiful forests of Sierra de Guadarrama. I dubbed it "Spanish Transylvania."


After 5km more, I took a brief respite in a parking lot of an abandoned warehouse. According to thee signs I was only 2km away from Segovia. For those of you counting, you should be as confused as I was. In fact, it was 2km to the city limits, but an additional 4km to the city center. Bastards! So for the next 4.5km I'm walking this endless trail marked "Segovia" but there's no city. In actuality, there was nothing but an endless slightly uphill road... oh, and just to make it fun, the temperature dropped 15 degrees F and gale force winds and rains began to kick up. Awesome!

After another brief stop, I realized I was only 2km from the city center. Time to nut up or shut up. So I slung on the pack and smashed out the last 2km in the rain and wind, arriving in the city center soaking wet and completely out of gas. I had done over 20 miles.

Thankfully, very close to the aqueduct I found Hostel Don Jaime. They had a single room open for 32 euros but frankly I would have paid 60 just to get out of the cold and rain. A hot shower and hanging up all my drenched gear later and I was ready to go get some celebratory food and beers. However, my jacket and everything else was still soaked. Not having many other options and being exhausted, I just went to bed. Slept 14 hours. Hail the conquering hero.

In all, I really had no idea if I could do this. I had no map, no real idea for the climate or terrain, and no idea of the hostility of the forest/locals. But I felt it was something I needed to do and so, doing what any intrepid traveler would do, I imposed my will upon it. Now I see why people love to do marathons or want to summit Everest. To be able to say, "you threw everything you had at me and I still beat you." That's a tremendous feeling.