Rotterdam, Netherlands: Architecture for the 25th Century

Everything I had heard about Rotterdam revolved around architecture. "It's nothing like Amsterdam" was the common theme. I figured surely that was an exaggeration- two Dutch cities less than an hour apart couldn't possibly be that different could they? The answer, apparently, is yes. Yes they can. And, given the theme of the past few posts, you might come to the conclusion that the reason Rotterdam is constructed of such cutting edge architecture is because all of the old city was destroyed in Allied bombing raids.

Well you would be wrong. But only partially wrong. It was in fact destroyed in a German bombing raid referred to as the "Rotterdam Blitz." Don't make the same mistake I did, thinking that's the name of a Dutch dance move. The Dutch will not be not amused. The name does, though, remind me of the "Ballroom Blitz" which my former boss once attributed as my theme song. I can see it. 

Subsequent to the war, Rotterdam became an epicenter for futuristic architecture and the city was rebuilt in a completely modern style. My first experience with this architecture was actually at my hostel- the StayOkay Hostel which is located in the cube houses. What do I mean by cube houses? I mean precisely that- houses in the shape of cubes. 

What does the inside of a cube shaped hostel dorm look like? Pretty much as you would imagine.

Kind of ridiculous. The far wall also leaned in at the same angle as the wall on the left. A great way to bash your head in the morning when you wake up. One thing I can say for that hostel is that they take great care to make sure their guests are aware of any dangerous situations which may ensnare them.

It's a TRAP! Haha. Pretty much the entire center of Rotterdam has been rebuilt in a modern style, however, there is a small place along of the old port that retains the classic Rotterdam style, identifiable from the large building dubbed the white house. As it was right behind the hostel I was able to get a nice picture of it at dusk. 

It was already getting dark by the time I had arrived in Rotterdam my first night so I decided to take a walk up to the Chinatown portion of the city in search for some good noodles. Along the way I got my first glimpse at some of the renowned Rotterdam skyscrapers. 

I did manage to find the Chinatown but it was small and expensive so I ended up just grabbing a snack and retiring to the hostel. That night at the hostel I met a new friend, Sidney, from Guangzhou who studies in Lyon and was visiting the Netherlands during her break week. We were both planning to visit Kinderdjik in the morning so we decided to team up. Ultimately we ended up going to Den Haag (The Hague) as well but I'll cover that in a separate post.

My third and final day in Rotterdam I actually got around to doing a serious expedition of the city. One of the most notable features of the city is the Erasmus Bridge named, like many things in Rotterdam, after their famous university Erasmus. Behind the bridge are several buildings under construction which are designed like blocks stacked askew. And just behind the bridge to the left you have a building which from one side appears straight but when you see it from the other side it expands outward from the ground like a Chinese fan.

To the left of these buildings, and dominating the skyline, is the rather conservative but exceptionally large Deloitte building. Doesn't matter where I go in the world- they're always there haha.

As a quick aside and a break from all of the architecture discussed and to come, there is an interesting type of tree in northern Europe that when it looses its branches, the remaining pattern looks like an eye staring at you. There was a line of about 15 of these along a street near the Deloitte office. Extremely creepy... stop staring at me trees!

Now seems like the appropriate time to mention the other thing that Rotterdam is famous for apart from the architecture. Rotterdam hosts the biggest port in all of Europe! As a port enthusiast it gives me a tingly feeling when I can track down and gaze out upon a magnificent port. Watching wistfully as giant container ships, the chariots of the seas, sully back and forth the wares of every region of the globe. It's something to be witnessed while enjoying an expensive cigar and fine cognac. For you Kev, the biggest port in Europe:

It's so huge I couldn't even fit it all in. That's what she said. Sorry, couldn't resist. Childish humor aside, because of the destruction and the rebuilding process, as well as it's role as THE international shipping hub, Rotterdam is a city full of worldly influences. These influences have led to some interesting curiosities that you'll find scattered throughout the city. For example, near the old port you will find this:

Yep, a massive Chinese shopping center and restaurant complex. Looks like old town Shanghai. Or maybe this will suit your fancy. When they rebuilt the northern port area they created a new bridge in line with the new road. But instead of moving the road around on the other side, it just goes through a building.

If you trek far enough west, however, you will exit the very city center and come across an area of old Rotterdam which survived the Blitz. To make it even more super-authentic looking they've left an operable windmill at the confluence of two of the canals.

Heading back to the central part of the city I noticed something I found humorous. Since I didn't give you any photos of them in Amsterdam, here is a "coffee shop" named Nemo right next to a fish n' chips place also named Nemo. I'm sure they're owned by the same person; perhaps the idea was for patrons of the coffee shop, now blighted by munchies to proceed directly to the fish n' chips place for refreshment. In any event, I can almost guarantee the owner did not get a license from Disney for the name.

More stuff about the port, you say? Ok. Right in the middle of the city along one of the old canals is the Maritime museum. In addition to the interior portion, there is a massive assortment of all types of shipping vessels and equipment scattered around outside the building. You're free to roam around at your leisure. I particularly enjoyed the container crane. Made me feel like I was back down at the port, smoking my cigar and sipping my cognac.

Some of the really dramatic office buildings are located close to the central station. One of my favorites was shaped like the blades of a windmill with some serious vertical support beams to hold up the vertical "blades."

Making my way back toward the hostel I came across some really cool apartments along one of the canals. Would be really sweet to have a balcony right along that canal... except when it floods or in high mosquito season of course. 

"Is there anything left of the old city center that you could show us, Mike?" Sure. There's one prominent thing: the St. Lauren's church. It was hit during the bombing but not completely destroyed and has since been rebuilt. There is a massive square behind it which is used, as I found out, on Saturdays for a giant flea market. 

Compare that with this picture on wikipedia from right after the bombings. Staggering. It was my last night in Rotterdam so I took a stroll around looking for something interesting. There are a number of bars in the area but it was one of those all-too-common Europe bar scenes where everyone goes with their groups of friends, gets drinks, and then sits at a table. No one mixing it up with other people.

I really miss that about US bars- just strolling into a random dive in NYC and mixing it up with whoever is there. In most places in Europe that just isn't done. Anyway, I got pretty bored so I decided to retreat to the hostel where I met a few people hanging at that bar. Still, it was a relatively quiet night and after a couple beers I called it a night. I think I've finally partied myself out. Took 7.5 months but it happened, haha.

Rotterdam is a cool city- certainly one worth taking a look around. Because I didn't really get into much nightlife though, I can't really give you a good bead on whether it would be a cool place to live. It has some of the intangibles- international feel, good transportation, lots of restaurants, bars, etc., but I just didn't get a feel of the overall scene. Oh well. I suppose if I really wanted I could always get a job at the Deloitte Rotterdam office and really dig in- they clearly have enough office space to accommodate me.

Next up I'd be heading into Belgium for a much much much anticipated 8 days of Belgian beer drinking extravaganza, including meeting up with a friend and fellow beer enthusiast from back in Granada. Whoo whoo... that's that sound of the beer train, better hop on board. Amped doesn't do it justice!

Bonus photo: there was a pizza place near the hostel cheekily called VIP (Very Italian Pizza). I gave it a try out of courteousy (and still with the great pies of Dusseldorf haunting my dreams). Opted for a pie with prosciutto, parmagianno reggiano, and arugula. Tasty but no where near Dusseldorf quality. Damn you Dusseldorfers, ha.